@bookworks@c.im asked the Fediverse for recommendations for accommodation on a clockwise tour of Scotland this autumn.
I have travelled alone and with family around Scotland a fair amount over the decades, scratching only the surface of this scenic, welcoming country from the Borders (the border with England) all the way to Shetland. I am not qualified as a tour guide or itinerary planner. Or writer. Or coherent, probably.
Nevertheless 🙂 here goes on a list of places seen and those I would revisit. It starts in the south/southeast at Gretna and goes on a vaguely clockwise route ending in Edinburgh.
Chances are I’ll update this as time passes. I’ve added a few links and a tiny number of my photos. (The links end half-way down the page at Aberdeen, I ran out of patience on the first run through).
Stuff
Gretna
Gretna/Gretna Green exists on the reputation of a place to which young couples would elope to and be married over the blacksmith’s anvil or something. It’s always been packed as we passed by since my first and only visit
West through Dumfries & Galloway
We visited Kircudbright on a wet day so used it only as a journey breaker. I’d bet it’s quite scenic though, especially down by the river.
We’re off to Newton Stewart later this year, booked a house close to the centre for a week.
Stranraer & Sandhead a few years ago was pleasant but nothing stood out other than its beach and a windy day trip down to the Mull of Galloway – the southernmost tip of Scotland.
There’s a lot of space between towns and villages here, and consequently a lot of spaces classified as Dark Sky – eminently suitable for stargazing.
Ayr and Ayrshire north to Glasgow
Made the mistake of stopping in a pub in Ayr next to the racecourse, arriving on race day.
Rolling hills. Decades ago, I can’t recall much. One area landmark of sorts is the Electric Brae, a section of the road that makes it appear one is rolling uphill when in fact one is rolling down. Oh, just go and see if you’re ever in the area.
Glasgow
I’ve only ever driven through or watched American football in Glasgow. Honestly I’m keen to hear what others have to say about the place declared the UK’s first-ever European City of Culture.
The road north to the Highlands
The A82 road heading to the west coast doesn’t really interest me, not even alongside Loch Lomond, although my wife would disagree – she says it’s incredibly beautiful, especially later in the year. It’s always been packed or being upgraded so take care driving. It’s only past Crianlarich it becomes interesting – for me.
It’s a bit bleak the further north you go but wow, big sky. And then the hills start in earnest.
Turning onto the A85 towards Oban cuts out some of the gradual approach to some of the cragginess of the Scottish Highland scenery and the road past Glencoe, but there’s more of that and history further north.
Oban has a distillery and a port, and great seafood. We took the ferry as foot passengers across to the Isle of Mull. Fans of the children’s TV series Balamory will want, nay be unable to resist the urge to visit scenic Tobermory. We stopped in a house outside Oban, one I’m absolutely certain is haunted by a previous owner.
Oban north to Fort William
North from Oban on the A828 past the sea lochs to the west keeps the interest up. In general driving is pretty easy – unlike driving in the cities people generally become more courteous the further north one travels. Heck, even on single track roads most drivers know how to use passing places! Not true in England and especially the south of England.
Glencoe. Infamous battlefield site. History in the raw.
The town of Fort William, despite the number of times I’ve visited, isn’t special to me. The area around and to the north and west, heck yes! The Moorings hotel in Banavie next to Neptune’s Staircase – the scenic locks on the Caledonian Canal was good base for a few years. Recent reviews appear to show the hotel has lost its spark so I can’t now recommend. Incidentally, if you’re lucky there’ll be a boat or three passing up or down the locks. Fort William’s location at the start of the A830 Road to the Isles to the west and the A82 north to Inverness and made it a good centre.
The town is a stop on the famous West Highland Railway. Look it up.
Glen Nevis to the southeast holds very special memories for me and although I can say I’ve walked up a bit of the Ben Nevis mountain, I much prefer to view that from places like the Commando Memorial close to Spean Bridge. At the turn of the century I visited alone for the first time. In early spring. With snow and sleet and wind. And I walked and saw wild deer and an eagle. It was awesome.
West from Fort William to Mallaig
West are the Glenfinnan Monument and film-famous Glenfinnan Viaduct, and the road itself to Mallaig is worth a drive, although aside from taking the ferry to the Isle of Skye and back again just the once I didn’t find much in Mallaig itself.
North from Fort William
There’s a gondola at Nevis Range and decent views atop Aonach Mor. I bet it’s spectacular in the winter.
The drive north up the A82 along Loch Lochy first is easy, and there’s a picnic site close to the southern end of Loch Oich I’ve always stopped at. Another incidental, the swing bridge at Laggan is kind-of fun to wait for if you like mechanical things.
The road west to Skye
At Invergarry the A87 road west eventually reaches Kyle of Lochalsh and a road bridge over to Skye. It passes the scenic Eilean Donan castle and is worth a drive on its own. Be careful of foreign tourists forgetting which side of the road they must drive on though. Gulp! (It’s the left by the way). 🙂
Skye is special of course, itself and in Scottish history. A highlight for me was the drive to Elgol and the view over to the Cuillins – craggy peaks. There’s not a lot at Elgol but the destination. And sure it’s not for all – my investment was worth it for me. (I read a fascinating book on shark fishing many years ago, Elgol is the closest I could get to the island of Soay).
Look up Plockton. A village with palm trees made possible but its location at the eastern, climate-tempering end of the Gulf Stream.
Honestly, all of this is personal, I get a lot out of Scotland but detoured a lot over the years. Thousands of miles, no joke.
North again to Fort Augustus and Inverness
Missing out that significant detour and continuing north reaches Fort Augustus. It’s small, it’s ok. Notable are a more scenic set of canal locks than Fort William’s and the really rather good restaurant at the Lovat Hotel.
Fort Augustus is situated at the southern end of Loch Ness. Further north along the loch are Drumnadrochit and the Nessie exhibits – the Loch Ness Monster is very real dontchaknow!
Foyers on Loch Ness’ east side
An alternative to the more widely-travelled west side, Foyers and the falls of Foyers might be a drive for another visit. It’s a narrower road but interesting nonetheless. There are plenty of viewpoints along the way, and I wish in our last visit I’d known of Nessiehunter Steve’s place at the north end of the loch.
Inverness
Off the north end of Loch Ness is Inverness. I’ve eaten in the city but that’s about it. There’s a river and it’s somewhat scenic.
Further east are Fochabers (Baxter’s foods), Cawdor Castle, Dallas (really!) and south from there are Ballater and Royal Braemar – and Balmoral castle. Not far away is the Royal Lochnagar distillery, the first I ever visited and literally the first time I’d ever tasted whisky. I hated it, but I’ve made up for it since with a whole host of, er… extended tastings of everything from the innocuousness of Bells blended all the way up to a 15 year old Laphroaig. Wish I could afford that one these days.
Aberdeen north to Shetland
I’ve been to Aberdeen twice. The first time it was just windy and bleak, the second we were catching the ferry to Shetland. My in-laws flew but my wife’s scared of flying so we took my car and I drove all of us around Shetland.
Shetland is amazing, but somehow not road trip material per se. It’s amazing, did I say that? My father-in-law and thus my wife and now daughters have Shetland heritage removed only two/three/four generations. He made a pilgrimage of sorts there just over 10 years ago. It’s an amazing, important place.
The Shetland Museum and Archives in Lerwick is a must-see, as are the Croft House museum and Sumburgh Head’s puffins. Best soap I ever bought – Shetland Soap Company.
By the way, my father-in-law’s ancestors came from the big house in a Shetland hamlet called Twatt. I kid you not.
The resourcefulness of the islanders is impressive. Less so the removal of pretty much all the trees the island once had.
Aberdeen south to Stirling
Anyway, south of Aberdeen is Stonehaven. It’s small enough to be walkable, and holds the honour of being the first place in the world to and sell and popularise a deep-fried Mars bar. 🙂 The ‘Cool Gourmet’ tearoom and caterer is a hidden gem. It’s tiny though. I absolutely loved their cheesy scones with rhubarb and ginger jam.
I’ve passed through Aviemore. I guess it comes alive in the winter but it’s a bit depressing in summer – for me at least.
I had friends who lived in Callander, north west of the road from Aberdeen to Stirling. The lived in a forestry-owned single-storey building but aside from their companionship for a bit and the countryside around I’ve not many memories of that area now.
Stirling
Although it’s quite a way, south we go to Stirling – famous for its castle and excellent views from its ramparts, and the National Wallace Monument. Braveheart, remember? I can’t recall being allowed to park close to the castle but it’s not an onerous walk up.
We stopped over Valentine’s Day 2006 close by the village of Fintry, back when the Culcreuch Castle was open as a hotel. Sadly that closed a few years ago.
Dundee and St Andrews
I’ve visited Dundee for work only, and St Andrews on a day trip from Edinburgh. Aside from the St Andrews golf and university connections I can’t recall much. Do not exceed the speed limit in Dundee. My boss did when we were there, and paid the literal price. Famous Dundee exports marmalade and The Beano children’s comic… can be found anywhere. Just saying.
Falkirk
Falkirk is notable for 2 things that I know of, the incomprehensibly-large Kelpies – horse statues visible from the M9 but with a visitor centre, and the Falkirk Wheel – an innovative rotating boat lift irresistible for any kind of mechanical engineer. 115 feet up or down without locks! My ex boss has been on it. Words don’t…
Edinburgh
Edinburgh? Well…
The bridges on the approach to Edinburgh are all spectacular in their own right. Rail is a big thing for the city, and Waverley station is…
Ok, the Royal Mile, Castle, bus tours, food, drink, Princes street and the Princes Street gardens, the nighttime ghost walks, Greyfriars Bobby statue, National Museum of Scotland, Camera Obscura… it’s a proper walkable, memorable city. The bus tours even head out to Holyrood and the Scottish Parliament.
Things to be aware of
Midges
Midges in the Highlands peak around July to August. I’ll never forget an Audi cabriolet owner who left his open outside the small private hotel off the single track road northeast out of Banavie. Absolutely crawling in little black flies it was. They bite, so take insect repellent.
Link: https://www.highlandexperience.com/blog/scotlands-midge-season-explained/
Accents
Glasgow accents can be almost impenetrable without listening carefully and deliberately. The farther north and west in Scotland one ventures the higher the chance of encountering an Hebridean voice; wonderful, mellifluous, just wonderful.
Apology
None of this is as in-depth as I’d like it to be, and I’ve not linked anything much as initially written, constructed as it is on the spur of the moment. I’d rather just go and visit! A road trip is a great way of seeing Scotland. It’s my favourite country anywhere.
Feel free to ask questions! The answers might be rubbish but who knows? 🙂