@bookworks@c.im asked the Fediverse for recommendations for accommodation on a clockwise tour of Scotland this autumn.
I have travelled around Scotland a fair amount over the decades, scratching only the surface of this scenic, welcoming country from the Borders (the border with England) all the way to Shetland. I am not qualified as a tour guide or itinerary planner. Or writer. Or coherent, probably.
Nevertheless 🙂 here goes on a list of places seen and those I would revisit. It starts in the south/southeast at Gretna and goes on a vaguely clockwise route ending in Edinburgh.
Gretna/Gretna Green exists on the reputation of a place to which young couples would elope to and be married over the blacksmith’s anvil or something. It’s always been packed as we passed by.
Dumfries & Galloway: We visited Kircudbright on a wet day so used it only as a journey breaker. I’d bet it’s quite scenic though, especially down by the river. Stranraer & Sandhead a few years ago was pleasant but nothing stood out other than a windy day trip down to the southernmost tip of Scotland.
Ayr and Ayrshire. Made the mistake of stopping in a pub next to the racecourse, arriving on race day. Rolling hills. Decades ago, I can’t recall much.
I’ve only ever driven through or watched American football in Glasgow.
The A82 road heading to the west coast doesn’t really interest me, not even alongside Loch Lomond, although my wife would disagree – she says it’s incredibly beautiful, especially later in the year. It’s always been packed or being upgraded so take care driving. It’s only past Crianlarich it becomes interesting – for me.
It’s a bit bleak the further north you go but wow, big sky. And then the hills start in earnest.
Turning onto the A85 towards Oban cuts out some of the gradual approach to some of the cragginess of the Highland scenery and the road past Glencoe, but there’s more of that and history further north.
Oban has a distillery and a port, and great seafood. We took the ferry as foot passengers across to the Isle of Mull. Fans of the children’s TV series Balamory will want, nay be unable to resist the urge to visit scenic Tobermory. We stopped in a house outside Oban, one I’m absolutely certain is haunted by a previous owner.
North from Oban on the A828 past the sea lochs to the west keeps the interest up. In general driving is pretty easy – unlike driving in the cities people generally become more courteous the further north one travels. Heck, even on single track roads most drivers know how to use passing places! Not true in England and especially the south of England.
Glencoe. Infamous battlefield site. History in the raw.
The town of Fort William, despite the number of times I’ve visited, isn’t special to me. The area around and to the north and west, heck yes! A hotel in Banavie next to the scenic locks on the Caledonian Canal was good base for a few years. Reading reviews it appears the Moorings has lost its spark so I can’t now recommend. Incidentally, if you’re lucky there’ll be a boat or three passing up or down the locks. The A830 Road to the Isles to the west and the A82 north to Inverness and made it a good centre.
Glen Nevis hold very special memories for me and I can say I’ve walked up a bit of the Ben Nevis mountain, but I much prefer to view that from places like the Commando Memorial close to Spean Bridge. At the turn of the century I visited alone for the first time. In early spring. With snow and sleet and wind. And I walked. It was awesome.
West are the Glenfinnan Monument and film-famous Glenfinnan Viaduct, and the road itself to Mallaig is worth a drive, although aside from taking the ferry to the Isle of Skye I didn’t find much in Mallaig itself.
There’s a gondola at Nevis Range and decent views atop Aonach Mor. I bet it’s spectacular in the winter.
The drive north up the A82 along Loch Lochy first is easy, and here’s picnic site close to the southern end of Loch Oich I’ve always stopped at. Another incidental, the swing bridge at Laggan is kind-of fun to wait for.
At Invergarry the A87 road west eventually reaches Kyle of Lochalsh and a road bridge over to Skye. It passes the scenic Eileen Donan castle and is worth a drive on its own. Be careful of foreign tourists forgetting which side of the road they must drive on though. Gulp! (It’s the left by the way). 🙂
Skye is special of course, itself and in Scottish history. A highlight for me was the drive to Elgol and the view over to the Cuillins – craggy peaks. There’s nothing at Elgol but the destination. And sure it’s not for all – my investment was worth it for me.
Look up Plockton. A village with palm trees made possible but its location at the eastern, tempering end of the Gulf Stream.
Honestly, all of this is personal, I get a lot out of Scotland but detoured a lot over the years. Thousands of miles, no joke.
Missing out that significant detour and continuing north reaches Fort Augustus. It’s small, it’s ok. Notable are a more scenic set of canal locks than Fort William’s and the really rather good restaurant at the Lovat Hotel.
Fort Augustus is situated at the southern end of Loch Ness. Further north along the loch are Drumnadrochit and the Nessie exhibits – the Loch Ness Monster is very real dontchaknow!
Off the north end of Loch Ness is Inverness. I’ve eaten there but that’s about it. There’s a river and it’s somewhat scenic.
Further east are Fochabers (Baxter’s foods), Cawdor Castle, and south from there are Ballater and Royal Braemar. I’ve been to Aberdeen twice. The first time it was just windy and bleak, the second we were catching the ferry to Shetland.
Shetland is amazing, but somehow not road trip material. It’s amazing, did I say that? My father-in-law and thus my wife have Shetland heritage removed only two/three generations. He made a pilgrimage of sorts there just over 10 years ago. It’s an amazing, important place.
Anyway, south of Aberdeen is Stonehaven. It’s small enough to be walkable, and holds the honour of being the first place in the world to and sell and popularise a deep-fried Mars bar. 🙂 The ‘Cool Gourmet’ tearoom and caterer is a hidden gem. It’s tiny though. I absolutely loved their cheesy scones with rhubarb and ginger jam.
I’ve passed through Aviemore. I guess it comes alive in the winter but it’s a bit depressing in summer – for me at least.
Although it’s quite a way, south we go to Stirling – famous for its castle and excellent views from its ramparts, and the National Wallace Monument. Braveheart, remember? We stopped over Valentine’s Day 2006 close by the village of Fintry, back when the Culcreuch Castle was open as a hotel. Sadly that closed a few years ago.
Edinburgh? Well…
Royal Mile, Castle, bus tours, food, drink, Princes street and the gardens, nighttime ghost walks, Greyfriars Bobby statue, National Museum of Scotland, Camera Obscura, it’s a proper walkable, memorable city.
None of this is as in-depth as I’d like it to be, and I’ve not linked anything, constructed as it is on the spur of the moment. I’d rather just go and visit! A road trip is a great way of seeing Scotland. It’s my favourite country anywhere.
Feel free to ask questions! The answers might be rubbish but who knows? 🙂